Handloom in India is providing largest employment opportunities in rural sector next to agriculture. The “Tie & Dye process” of Odisha is a unique method of hand-woven art which is totally different from all other techniques involved in different parts of India. This method of weaving is confined to a particular community of Odisha, like BHULIA, KOSTA, KULIof Western Odisha and TANTI, RANGANI of coastal Odisha. The method of preparation of Tie &dye, is called as ‘Sambalpuri bandha’ in Western Odisha where as incoastal area, it is called Nuapatna-bandha. Sambalpuri sarees are produced both in silk and cotton in all the district of Western Odisha like Bargarh, Sonepur, Bolangir, Kalahandi, Sambalpur and Boudh. The weavers produce curvy and intricate designs on the body of the fabric and prepare the design in the form of bandha prior to weaving. Thousand years before, when there was no invention of machineries, the weavers of Odisha were making sari and other household fabrics in their cottages and were fulfilling the need of the society. Before the invention of machineries, people were depending on the weavers to fulfil their requirements. This system of weaving is so traditional and hereditary that the knowledge is passed on to a son from his father and went on generation to generation. Nature based designs like flowers, fruits, buds, leaves of different plants, animals and birds of different species are being depicted on the sari and other fabrics in tie & dye form. The ancient art of different temples and sculptures are also designed on the body of the sarees. Legend says that the sari and dhotis produced by these weavers were used for wearing by Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra of Puri and other Gods and Goddesses of Odisha. It is a tradition that the women of Odisha used to wear the hand-woven saris during all local festivals like NUAKHAI, PUSPUNI, LAXMI PUJA and other holy occasions. Even it is a tradition that the bride has to wear hand-woven sari during her wedding time in order to perform all rituals.
The process of Tie & Dye is labour-intensive works, which require the involvement of the entire family. Preparation of cloth basing on tie and dye goes through two different of work such as pre-loom activities and on-loom activities. The
Tie & Dye process comes under the former category. Preparation of design requires imagination and creativity, which need the knowledge and skills of a weaver. Knowledge on dyeing, weaving technique, nature of the yarn like count and quality, absorption capacity of the yarn and fragility and elasticity are also essential for a weaver involved in this process.
Meanwhile, lot of changes have been made in designs, colours and techniques. Government has also provided various technical and marketing supports to increase the wage-earning capacity of the handloom weavers and to preserve this age-old art. Due to design development and technological up-gradation, the productivity of the weavers has been increased and the life style of the weaver families has been changed. Development of entrepreneurship also turned the weavers self-sufficient both in production and marketing. Balijuri weekly market in Bargarh district of Odisha is a best platform for sale of their hand-woven products, where buyers from different parts of Odisha as well as from Jharkhand and Chhatishgarh state come to purchase as per their need.
As a successful entrepreneur, I have extended my support to more than 850 weavers of Western Odisha by way of supplying them raw materials like yarn, dyes and chemicals and guiding them for making zero defect zero effect product. Established one weavers’ organisation in the name of “MEHER SAREES” at Bargarh (Odisha). I am providing regular employment to the weavers throughout the year to maintain their livelihood. Our entrepreneurship firm “Meher Sarees” has been registered under “INDIA HANDLOOM BRAND” which has created a brand image among the customers and has built up a trust to purchase the handloom products. The weavers are imparted training on different weaving techniques for design development and colour schemes. This in turn has increased the value of our products and we share the profits among the weavers in terms of increasing the weaving charges. Besides, the weavers working under our firm get perks for the new design they create which encourage them to create innovative works. Let us create an awareness among the customers to wear handloom products as a matter of pride which is hygienic, eco-friendly also reflect our tradition and culture.—The Hawk